Salt Island, BVI (January 9, 2015)

Dead Chest Island

Dead Chest Island

We keep our mooring ball at Peter Island but tie the kayak to it so no one else takes it. Our plan is to sail up to Salt Island to view the wreck of the Royal Mail Steamer Rhone. Right outside of Great Harbour is Dead Man’s Chest – an island supposedly in the shape of a coffin when viewed from the northwest (hence the name). The infamous pirate Blackbeard allegedly left 15 men there with nothing more than a bottle of rum. Some tried to swim the ½ mile to Peter’s Island but didn’t make it. Continue reading

The Place in Pictures (January 7-11, 2015)

Great snorkeling right off the boat

Great snorkeling right off the boat

We arrive in Great Harbour, Peter Island. It seems like the perfect place for us. I tell Matt I don’t want to leave.

 

The steep rocks that are a blast to climb

The steep rocks that are a blast to climb

 

 

 

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Looking for Shelter (January 4-6, 2015)

Rounding the point of Peter Island

Rounding the point of Peter Island

Our anchor holds, as does everyone else’s. We’ve had no time to explore but decide to leave immediately in the morning. Most of the other boats do the same. The Christmas trades will continue for another night or two before they ease up. I’m using the windlass to pull up the anchor chain. It is a motorized mechanism that hauls in the chain and drops it into the below-deck

Local license plate

Local license plate

anchor compartment at the bow of the boat (there is a foot-operated covered button on deck). I see the anchor free from the bottom but there is still about 30 feet of chain out. Matt yells that it’s torqued. I’m trying to manually unwind it before I pull in a few more feet. I accidentally step on the button as I’m trying to untwist it. Before I know what’s happening, my finger gets pulled into the windlass. Matt is yelling. I’m yelling. Continue reading

White Bay, Peter Island (January 3-4, 2015)

White Bay, Peter Island

White Bay, Peter Island – we were anchored to the left of the beach

We pull into Little Bay on Peter Island. We were here over a decade ago and there were only two boats in it. Today it has about 30 and it is a small bay. It looks like a marine parking lot. Instead of just being anchored, everyone is anchored and tied to the shore so they don’t swing, such that more boats can squeeze in. We motor through it and find some potential spots – a mere 10 feet from other boats. A huge dingy is hauling screaming kids around on a water sled. Matt asks what I think. I try to let him make these decisions based on what places provide good protection but my inner introvert is screaming NO! Continue reading

The New Year (January 1-3, 2015)

You can just barely see the road that zigzags up the mountain

You can just barely see the road that zigzags up the mountain

It’s New Year’s Day and I would love to stay in this anchorage (I’ve named it One Boat Bay) but it’s Malachi’s birthday and we promised him fresh fish for dinner (this is not as simple as it sounds as there is surprisingly little fish available. The reef fish have something called ciguatera which affects the nervous system and can be fatal to humans]. We head to East End Bay where the guide book says there is a fish market – the first we’ve heard of so far. Continue reading

One-Boat Bay (December 27-December 31, 2014)

IMG_3165After Christmas we visit The Baths again and then leave Virgin Gorda. On the following days, we visit Camanoe Island, Guana Island and Trellis Bay (where Aragorn has his studio). Trellis Bay has bars and there will be a huge New Year’s Eve party with music blasting until the wee hours. We decide to go somewhere quiet. Where that will be is unclear. We’ve changed our minds about 10 times but have a list of places plus two back-ups in case the anchorages are full. Continue reading

Christmas in the Islands (December 24-25, 2014)

Malachi preparing for the holiday

Malachi preparing for the holiday

Although we’re not in the beautiful bay I imagined (we decided to stay in the marina), it is fun to decorate the boat and our little tree. The boys have endless questions about how Santa will find us and get in the boat. I tell them we’ll leave the companionway unlocked but that maybe he’ll come through a hatch. “Whatever you do,” I warn them, “stay in your berth if you hear any noise.” “Why?” they ask. “He’s an old man,” I reply, “You don’t want to give him a heart attack, do you? Besides, if you scare the reindeer, they might fall in the water and I’m not sure they can swim. It would be terribly sad if Rudolph ended up drowning.” The boys look appalled and solemnly promise to stay in their berths. They have been drawing endless pictures lately. Continue reading

Guests at Dinner (December 2014)

No, we did not have guests over to dinner. We had guests in our dinner. I’m prepping food in the galley (which has rather dim light). I pour a cup of rice into boiling water and begin stirring it. That’s odd, I think. I don’t remember putting spices in yet. I look more closely at all the floating brown flecks. I then look into the container of rice and see hundreds of bugs scrambling around. Weevils. I’ve never seen them before but I’ve read about them and how they can be a problem in dry goods on boats. Bay leaves supposedly deter them but I never bothered to put any in the container. I show them to Matt. “They’re a source of protein,” I say to the man who once ate cricket tacos. He gives me a look, takes the pot and dumps it overboard. The boys take the offending container to land and dispose of the rice and its inhabitants. I open a fresh bag of rice. It’s just rice. That’s nice.

Matt is grilling up on deck. He calls us up and says he wants to share something. He felt like talking to his dad (who died in 2013) so he just started talking out loud to him, as if he were on the phone. He felt like his dad was there with him and, when he was finished a brilliant shooting star began moving across the sky. He thought it was so cool and wanted to tell us about it. But that’s not the end of the story. Earlier in the day, I went into a little shop to look for a Christmas gift for Matt. He loves sea turtles so I was looking for something in that realm but nothing looked appealing. I then saw this engraved rock and bought it. [It says “Perhaps the stars in the sky are loved ones letting us know they are near by guiding us through the night”]. IMG_3123Coincidence? I think not.

The Dream versus The Reality (December 23, 2014)

Some of our travels

Some of our travels

It’s the day before Christmas Eve. I had imagined (and told Matt) that I wanted to find a beautiful resort or bay in which to be at least 3 or 4 days before Christmas so we could relax and prepare. I imagine projects with the boys in which we make homemade cards, decorate the tree and the boat, and generally relax. At exactly the time in which I was constructing these lovely family tableaus should have been the time I realized I was setting expectations (I once read that expectations are simply anticipated disappointment). Instead, we find ourselves working on the head … all day. Continue reading

Leverick Bay Marina, Virgin Gorda (December 20-22, 2014)

DCIM100GOPROSeveral people have mentioned Leverick Bay Marina because it’s not ridiculously costly and because they have a pool. We decide it might be a good place to be for Christmas. On Sunday, we realize it’s cheaper to rent a car than take a taxi. Driving is on the opposite side of the road here; we head down the edge of a steep hill that looks like it heads straight down into the water. Continue reading